There are several structural reasons and adjustment issues that could cause a new flute to play sharper than you are accustomed.
Structural Reasons
- Different makers make instruments tuned to a different pitch. Several of the larger, professional makers in the U.S. are now making new instruments to A442 and by special request are making instruments to A440. Instruments that are made for the European or Asian markets may also be pitched to A442 or A444. What you or your ensemble is used to playing to may differ, so you will have to pull out your headjoint and/or adjust your playing to compensate. It will take a little getting used to it.
- The scale of each flute (i.e., the position of the tone holes relative to one another) also varies from maker to maker. This largely affects the intonation of notes relative to one another. So one makers A440 or A442 scale may not be exactly like another maker’s A440 or A442 scale. When you switch makes of flute, you will often have to figure out how to play the new flute in tune with itself. New is simply different and its something you’ll adjust to once you apply yourself to the issue. Or, if you find a flute too difficult to play in tune, it might make sense to get a different instrument that is easier for you to play.
- Headjoints will affect intonation due both to the overall length of the headjoint and also the taper. With headjoints the opposite problem of playing too flat may occur if the headjoint is too long for the body to which it is fitted. So always test the headjoint with the flute body in which it will be used before committing.
Adjustment Reasons
These are troubleshooting tests you can do yourself to determine if the cause of sharpness throughout an instrument may be an issue of adjustment.
- At the end of your tuning rod should be a mark that circles the rod and that measures 17 mm from the end. You should insert this end first into your headjoint until it touches the headcork stopper to see if the mark shows up in the middle of the embouchure hole. If it doesn’t you might need to replace the headcork and/or move the stopper so that the line is in the middle of the embouchure hole.
- Another test is to make sure there isn’t an ancillary leak in the headjoint. With the headjoint apart from the body and the crown of the headjoint unscrewed a few turns, press your palm on the open end that usually is inserted into the flute (Note: licking the palm first helps to create a better seal). Then cover the entire mouthpiece with your mouth, inhale, hold your breath, and see if you can create a vacuum. You should be able to create and hold a vacuum for about 4 seconds. Sometimes there can be a tiny leak in the cork or VERY rarely there something happening with a solder point in the embouchure plate. After this test, remember to screw your crown back into place. If you find a leak, you may need to replace your headcork or have your lip plate looked at by someone.
- Check to see that both your trill keys are closing properly. If you’re okay playing a few notes like a pretzel, you can reach across yourself and press directly on the small keys of the trill pads that are closed to make sure they’re REALLY sealing. Then with your left hand play notes on the flute down to G or G# and see if this helps pitch.You do a similar test if you have a C# trill on your flute.
- Check to see that the C# key (played with the left hand first finger) is sealing properly. Depending on your hands, its placement by the maker, and/or the seating of the pad the left hand C# key can cause a leak that weakens a number of notes or creates a sharpness in the instrument – notably in the G or G#. When playing the flute, press a little harder than usual with the left hand first finger and see if this improves intonation. If the pad seats correct but its rather an issue of being able to consistently and reliably depress the key, think about adding height to the key (i.e., a piece of cork or a thick piece of felt) to make it easier to depress.